Last day away - Guangzhou

As I walk back over the bridge from dinner at Mr Rocky, I start seeing some interesting looking buildings running to my left along the river bank. A sign tells me that I am seeing the beginning of what had been called ten miles of foreign trade houses spread out along the West Bank of the Pearl River. These weren’t warehouses as such - more the offices and former homes of those who conducted business in what was Canton. It’s getting quite late, so I decide to come back in the morning for a proper look. Wouldn’t you if this is what you saw?

Heading home, I come across this rather glamourous building, which turns out to be an art museum and teahouse.

Instead of going in, I make for a 7-11 to pick up a last beer and, to celebrate my last night away, a miniature of Johnny Walker Black Label. In the morning, I take a final perambulation along the Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street. I have found a really good video of the walk - I stay almost directly behind the small mall (mainly food upstairs, clothes downstairs) at 2 minutes in. There’s another mall at about 3 minutes in - it has a range of good looking restaurants upstairs, although I don’t actually eat at them.

In among the modern shops along this street, I see several old-looking cafés or teahouses - what I think from the distance is a temple is actually a restaurant. I also see an old school cinema.

Starting in the square beside my hotel, there’s a sequence of bronze sculptures, showing the various trades that have been carried out here over the years.

Underneath the hotel, I find a very big food court (it’s nowhere near as busy as in the video, but it is about 10 in the morning) where I pop in for breakfast.

It’s time to go explore what I saw last night, but first, coffee. Kafelaku is pretty big in this part of Guangzhou (although I don’t see any of their shops on Beijing Lu) and this looks like their head office - they have a training school in the basement. The Orient Express restaurant is next door, including a carriage which I guess is from the train.

Behind these buildings and parallel to the river, there’s a very pleasant area in which to walk and hang out, lined with great old buildings - many of which have coffee shops. I visit two more while I’m here - including M Stand Coffee, which had been one of my favourites in Qingdao, several months ago.

At the river, I find two competing sets of musicians - the first has gathered in quite the crowd, the second - not so much.

I’ve really enjoyed this small part of Guangzhou. Since I still have a lot of time to kill (my flight is just after midnight), I check out Beijing Lu, which is supposedly the main pedestrian area in Guangzhou. It’s pretty but really not for me.

All I want is somewhere to sit, have a snack with a coffee or maybe a beer, but I find it very hard to find anything. I’ve walked the length of the street and several tributaries and am nearly back to the metro station when I see this place. As I wait for my food, a young woman throws herself down full length on the seat beside me, and feigns sleep. I guess she’s exhausted from shopping. Two more join her. They have an extended debate with themselves and the waiter over what to eat and drink. My food turns up: unusually, the chicken and chips dish they provide is much bigger than the picture in the menu.

While the three women next to me wait, two leave and take photos of each other on the stairs which face a full length mirror. Obviously this place is set up for Insta. The third stays at the table, on her phone. Their drinks arrive, looking like light bulbs with coloured drinks and flashing lights (I am told that they are fruit juice based). Friend 3 doesn't touch them or her food until the other two come back, which takes a while. Then they have an extended photo session of drinks and food, ignoring the rule in the menu not to take photos of food, just as the waiter, who may be the boss, ignores them ignoring the rules. The couple on the other side of me are much less interesting, just watch a video on a phone and speak sporadically.

The waiter gives me a VIP gift of some watermelon - I haven’t had any since Central Asia so it is very welcome. I then get a very warm farewell from multiple staff members. Nice place.

Back at the metro, it is so crammed that it takes three trains before I can get on one. At the airport, I retrieve my backpack and get in line to exit China. The security man yawns quite widely - if you need to hide a tennis ball, I know the spot!

Since I have spent so much with trip.com. I now qualify for free lounge passes every so often, including here. I have to say that I’m glad I didn’t pay for the pass - there’s a very limited selection of beers, no spirits and pretty uninspired looking food. I am amused by the sign I see as I approach my plane - don’t throw coins at it.

Cheers!