Historic KL, then Ipoh

My last day in KL, I decide to check out the newly refurbished and re-opened library. It’s a 10-15 minute walk from the hotel, yet the round trip takes more than 10 hours. Admittedly, I spend some time inside the library, but the rest reflects a commitment to wandering. As my phone lost power before I got back, I truly was wandering for a bit.

Getting to the library took me past a place I visited on my very first time in KL - I was staying in the former Heritage Station Hotel at the old KL Railway Station, and walked past the post office towards the Dataran Merdeka (Independence Square). On the way, I found a cool area I have never been able to find since - I know now it is Old Market Square. There have been changes and it is currently under development.

The café I remember has gone, but now there’s the KLCG Confectionery and Bakery, which is a very busy place with quite a queue. Since I am by myself, they let me in quite quickly.

This was, essentially, a chocolate mousse pie. Quite tasty! Here’s what members of my profession wear at work in Malaysia.

Carrying on, I’m really in the historic centre of KL now. This is the Sultan Abdul Samad Jamek Mosque, at the confluence of the two rivers. At night, there’s a pretty special sound and light fountain show - during the day, just some steam. Next is the Dataran Merdeka, as seen from the library - the big building along the edge is the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, used for Government offices.

Here’s the library itself, followed by the Royal Selangor Club, which is also on the Dataran Merdaka, opposite the Sultan Abdul Samad Building. The square used to be the padang (playing field) of the Royal Selangor Club, but became of national importance on 31 August 1957 when the Malaysian flag was raised here for the first time.

I decide that I’ll head to a new mall, the Exchange TRX, for dinner - it’s about 3 km away. The weather is not kind - I get a few warning spots, then it’s a downpour. I’m caught under an overhang from a building for at least half an hour. An enterprising young fellow, normally a food delivery guy, passes by with a collection of umbrellas for sale. I already have one, which I foolishly left behind, and think the rain won’t last, so decline. I’m wrong. There is a very brief abatement, enough to allow me to cross the street, where I can go into a hotel and wait it out in comfort. Eventually, I do make it to TRX, and follow the signs for the eating places. Nothing matches my mood, so I end up with a burger and fries. Of course, being a posh mall, they don’t bother putting signs up to tell visitors about the extensive food court in the basement.

It’s at this point that my phone dies - I’m surrounded by mall and other buildings, so can’t get my bearings. Luckily, I also have my tablet and it connects to Mall Wifi - I know the mapping won’t take me the whole way, but at least it gets me to where I can see Merdeka118, which is just around the corner from my hotel.

The train gods have been kind to me again, and I’ve managed to get a seat on an early morning train out of KL to Ipoh. It’s a bog standard journey and I’m in Ipoh in time for lunch - but first I go back to ColdBlue, a wonderful coffee shop I have been to numerous times. It’s up on the first floor, with a view out over the padang. They have the tiniest coffee roaster out the back.

I’m not staying in the Old Twon - rather just across the Kinta River. I like exploring this area almost as much as the Old Town - there are all sorts of cafés and eateries here, and rather a lot of pubs (all quite empty, so I don’t go in). My first night, I eat somewhere I missed last time - I’m actually drawn in by the chickens and the reference to their signature noodles. It turns out the noodles are just in a small amount of broth, not to be eaten on their own - it’s really a chicken and beansprouts joint. I remember a time in Whangarei, back in the 90’s, when the world seemed to be inundated with beansprouts, when I uttered the immortal phrase “no more fucking beansprouts!!”. And here I have a whole plate of them. These are a bit different - they’ve been dunked in the chicken cooking water, and had two sauces added - more vinegary than soyish in flavour. I actually eat most of them.

I wake to a flea market in the street beside my hotel.

I had a plan for the day, but I’ve left it a bit late, and I’m not quite feeling up to the walking involved (I seem to have twisted my back this morning) so just wander into the Old Town - coffee at ColdBlue then, because it started here, lunch at Old Town White Coffee. It turns out I’ve been mistaken - they’ve only been around since 2007, but they ride on the back of the white coffee style that was invented here in Ipoh: the coffee beans are roasted with palm oil margarine, and then condensed milk is used to sweeten and lessen the harsh buzz of the coffee. They tell me the first chicken is “not good” so will cook some fresh, which means I’m here quite a while.

Next up - a ghost town.

Cheers!