Bukhara - Khiva

Train #20, Distance traveled from Shanghai 15,500

I mentioned in my last post that there is an observation tower, but that it’s pointless. That’s because it is across the road from the Ark of Bukhara. It not only obscures the view, but provides vantage points superior to what the tower offers.

I come across it at the end of my first day: on my second, I make it my starting point. It was built in 500 AD or so, and contained a complete city within its walls, as well as a citadel. There had been previous fortresses on the site going back three thousand years which had not survived - this one does, so it is said, because it is built around seven points, in a shape which reflects the location of the stars of the constellation Ursa Major. It was never again destroyed - although the Russian red army had a pretty good go at it when they bombed it from the air in 1920. At that time, it was in use by the Emir - it is possible he tried to blow it up himself, so the Russians could not get their hands on its contents or see things they ought not.

Visitors to the Emir would go in through this archway to the waiting courtyard - there could be up to 400 visitors in a day. At the other end, is where the Russians had an embassy.

There’s not much of the interior left - one part is in use as a museum. Although I don’t understand a word of what I see, I’m pleased that one room is devoted to a collection of travel writing by great travelers through the area. In those days, since you didn’t have Instagram or Substack, you made maps like this one.

All the trains I have been on have samovars, wood-fire boilers to provide hot water for tea, noodles or whatever. This is an example, but I’d love it if the train samovars were more like what’s in the museum.

Obviously there would have been mosques, but none survive from the early days. This one was built in the 18th century.

Outside, there are a few bits of ruins, but the land is mainly cleared.

Back at ground level, there’s a mosque and disused madrassah across the road, beside the observation tower, along with a few places to eat: more shaslyk!

Heading back across the road, past the south side of the Ark, there’s another mosque - the Kalan: from there, I go south, to connect with what I saw yesterday. There are more madrassah - one I have to pay to go inside, not sure why - none of the others have made me pay, and there doesn’t seem to be anything unique about this one - maybe its to pay for the power tools I can hear being used.

This is inside the madrassah - repeating shapes.

The day is coming to an end, the light is starting to glow, then go.

Walking past the wee artificial lake I saw yesterday, people are enjoying a beer: why not do the same? In fact, it’s so nice here, why not stop for a meal?

I walk back the way I came yesterday, along the south side, up the west and back along the north. Along the way, I admire the buildings lit up in the dark, and stop in at the Bon! café. Their cappuccino is so sweet, I stop in at the Bon! Bon! café for their superior version.

Yes, that’s two coffees at 9 or 10 at night, but I am not concerned about sleeping: my onwards train is at 3:45 in the morning. I’ve retained my hotel room because I had no idea what I might do with myself at Bukhara late at night, and didn’t want to carry bags. Around 2, I summon a taxi using Yandex - the Russian version of Uber. Because it arrives within 2 minutes, I end up with quite a wait in the railway station - at least there is someone to make me some tea.

Once on the train, I go off to sleep fairly quickly, and awake to find myself just outside Khiva.

Cheers!